Ortler normal route 3,905m

Classic and elegant climb over the Payerhütte to the highest peak in South Tyrol

are you ready for your adventure in the mountains?

Tour description

At 3,905m, the Ortler is the highest mountain in South Tyrol and the Tyrol region. The heavily glaciated mountain is the main peak of the Ortler Alps in the southern Eastern Alps. Its first ascent in 1804 on the orders of Archduke John of Austria is one of the most important mountaineering achievements of that time.
The Ortler is now considered one of the most important summit destinations in the Eastern Alps. The normal route leads north to the summit. All climbs to the Ortler are demanding alpine tours. The Ortler north face is actually the largest ice wall in the Eastern Alps. Other climbs include the Hintergrat, the normal route from the Payerhütte and the Hochjochgrat.
The varied Ortler Normalweg leads to the 3,905m high summit over challenging, combined terrain. Your local mountain guide from South Tyrol will lead you safely to the summit on a rope.
Our mountain guides know the Ortler very well on all of its climbs. Contact us. We will find the perfect tour for you!

detailed description

The tour starts at the Payerhütte. The first part of the tour is completed on the rock. We climb below the Tabarettaspitze and down into a gap. We continue over a rocky head to the so-called Wandl. There are some chain insurance companies on site, which make the climb much easier.
Continue flat for a short time and over an exposed ridge and on to the large crossing. This has now been gutted and equipped with chains and stirrups.
From now on we continue with crampons and ice axes. Via the Bärenloch you go to Tschierfegg. Here we also pass the Lombardi bivouac on the Ortler.
From here the glacier is full of crevasses. Some passages over mighty crevasses are made easier by ladders. In the steep glacier passages with temperatures of up to 35 degrees, you will be secured tightly to the rope by your experienced mountain guide. We continue over the Ortler high plateau in an easy direction southwest to the summit of the Ortler at 3,905m!
The base for the tour is the Julius-Payer Hut, located at 3,029m. The normal route to the Ortler is rated ZS UIAA III.

Minimum number of participants

1-2 participants per guide

Price

800€ for 1 person
500€ per person for 2 people

Payment info

30% of the total amount upon booking
Remaining payment on the day of the day tour

Services

Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
Cabin reservation
Free rental equipment

extra costs

Transfer from and to the meeting point
Overnight stay in a hut with half board at the Payerhütte
possibly cable car ticket
Mountain guide expenses (hut with mountain guide half board)
Individual tips
The additional costs may vary and are for guidance only!